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toy box and desk combo
It was written by the Post.
So I don\'t have an image step by step, but hopefully the design image that is described and done will inspire you!
Please note that this uses an Ikea storage box called HOL, but it can be easily modified for any simple storage box with a lid combination.
We had a new child, so the box became a nursery.
My daughter\'s separate desk and toy box needs to be moved out of her spare room and into her bedroom.
The problem is that there is not enough room for both.
So either one person has to go or I have to come up with something that can fill the two characters.
I \'ve looked into the table/toy box combinations and while they do exist, they\'re not quite right, either too expensive or too big on their own.
My solution is HOL Desk, which works as expected (
A large storage box)
And a table (
Including legroom and inclined working face)
-I also adjusted the design of the HOL to have the hinge cover opposite the default removable cover.
For my design, I used Ikea\'s larger HOL storage box, but I think it can also be modified to work on smaller HOL units or any other storage box.
The main design problems faced are :-
How to lift the lid at the same time with a functional cover and tilt/forward to hold the leg space. -
How to lift the box to a practical desk height. -
How to make it safe (ish).
My final design involves adding four more legs to raise the table (
It conveniently leaves enough space below to accommodate a standardBed storage box)
, Create a lift/tilt mechanism securely attached to the body of the box and the lid by hinge (
Allows the lid to run as a rear hinge cover)
And incorporate a method to ensure that the risk of trapped fingers is reduced (
If not completely deleted).
The mechanism works by using two other wooden strips of different lengths to connect two horizontal wooden strips together.
This causes them to be parallel when \"off\", at a certain angle when turned on.
I hope you will see this yourself by looking at the pictures.
I have thought of how a table works in my mind, but to test this theory I used a free non
In principle, the commercial procedure for designing the lifting/tilting mechanism is called the connecting rod mechanism.
Quote \"…\" from the manual Is a computer program that allows you to design and edit a two-dimensional mechanism and then simulate the movement of the mechanism \".
You can see my proof of concept results in the picture.
Note that I need two institutions that are done-one for each side and the other for mirroring each other.
I take the design to my garage and improvise/adjust the design during the design process.
Some measurement constants are outlined below, but you can adjust something to your taste as this design can be highly modified to produce more or less leg space and more or less angle of the lid.
Shortening your arms in the same proportion creates less legroom, and extending your arms creates more legroom.
Increasing the length of the rear arm increases the angle.
Without any additional adjustments to the mechanism, the legs can be grown, shortened or removed from the design.
Use sugar sticks or cards to make various designs for the reduced version before entering the real project.
Sorry if it\'s TLDR but the end result I get is: the wood at the bottom of the mechanism is twice the length (1 on each side)
-The length of these is the same as the inner width of the assembled HOL.
This part is eventually secured to the interior of the HOL through the wood glue and screws at both ends, pre-drilled and sunk heads to keep it neat and tidy, and to ensure that the wood does not crack (
From now on, let\'s say this is the case for all screws).
The beam is also located at the top of the leg for additional support (
May not be required, but it is better to add it as it makes the legs look neat and adds stability).
You can see this in the picture.
Please note that the bolts you can see are worn from the \"hidden side\" before fixing them in place, and the wood is counter-sunk to accommodate the head in bold.
This way, it doesn\'t have to go through the wood of the HOL unit for neatness, though it can if you want.
2 times shorter forearm.
These are connected to the above length by one of the bolts.
The end of this point is also rounded, and the bolts pass through the \"center\" of this rounded area, both for neatness and for the free movement between it and the lid.
The length of the rear arm is slightly 2 times longer.
Rounded again and connected by Bolt.
The length of the wood on the top of the mechanism is 2 times.
This is first connected by bolts to the right position for each arm so that the top and bottom are horizontal and flush when closed.
The back of this arm is flush with the outside rear edge of the HOL (
As explained later, it sinks into the HOL through a notch and rests in this notch for support).
The front edge is tapered to prevent blocking in lift/tilt motion, but also about 20mm shorter than the interior measurement of HOL when assembling.
Twice the small wooden block.
You can see these in the image-they are attached to the back of the length of the top of each piece of wood by glue and screws.
This is basically to provide enough space and stability for the hinge. 2x ‘handles’.
These can be seen again in the photo and again attached to the top of the wood in the same way.
Actually, I ended up using some wood strips cut off from another HOL lid (
A project to make the lid the same size as the box in order to install a lid in my wardrobe)
This helps it to mix better.
These are close to the front and used to get the purchase when reclining the lid forward by grabbing both the bottom of the handle and the top of the lid and lifting it-it sounds complicated but my 6 year old daughter can do it, so it\'s really not difficult.
Before assembly, I cut a notch on each side panel close to the front to accommodate \"hands \".
These handles should highlight the side of the HOL and flush with the side of the lid.
Also, I also cut a gap with a jigsaw puzzle at both ends of the rear panel to accommodate the top length of the mechanism including hinge support, as you can see in the picture, it is located inside this notch to add support and to make sure the hinges are properly connected.
The top length of the mechanism should be flush with the rear panel so that the hinge position is consistent with the rear edge.
I polished these gaps with smooth 4 times length wood.
Before assembly, I cut the corners off the bottom plate to accommodate the legs.
The length depends on the preference, or you can even choose to have no legs.
When the mechanism is located at the top of each leg, I also cut a corner from the top of each leg to keep it tidy.
All wood is polished along the edges and the end of the new cut to remove any debris/sharp edges.
Where the wood is in a fixed position, it is glued together and screwed.
The mechanism bolts are attached tightly enough to provide some tension, but loose enough to run smoothly.
This is all about it.
It is mainly to guess the work and personal preferences used to obtain the length of wood for the desired angle and leg space.
Please see the picture for further guidance.
This is just the first attempt on this table.
I just put a cutting pad on it as a working face, but plan to add a hard board later (
Position it in the HOL lid with a square \"key\" so it can be easily removed/swapped out)
, And one or two holes that hold the pencil holder, as well as the slightly raised edges at the bottom to prevent the paper and pencil from rolling (
Maybe use one side of another HOL project I mentioned earlier).
Others also mentioned the trapped fingers, which is always possible for smaller children.
You may want to invest in several soft closed gas hinges
They are pocket money prices for companies like Ebay. That\'s all -enjoy!
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