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Plastic Bottle Spud Gun
Power potato gun made of plastic bottle, metal tube on mop handle and barbecue grill.
Disclaimer: This is probably the most dangerous teaching I have ever had.
You\'re improvising a gun that uses surprisingly large gas explosions in a fragile plastic shell, pushing about 80-caliber projectiles down a barrel that could be nearly 2 feet long
Some of the risks inherent in this project are :-
If the gun explodes, the damage caused by the shrapnel (
Unlikely, but possible)-
Very, very loud noise if the combustion chamber explodes-
It\'s noisy at its best, but if the bottle breaks, chances are you\'ll be permanently deaf --Burns-
If you have any leftover fuel on your clothes, skin or hair, set yourself on fire --
Cut from torn metal edges
Electric shock of about 50,000 v power supply (
Electricity is safe for most adults, but electric shock/accident can cause an accident)-
If your act of holding a gun is considered unsafe, or it is illegal to have such a weapon in your area, according to the prosecution of the local law enforcement department --
Curious little kids ask you endless questions about how you built it.
Don\'t do this if you\'re not willing to take all of these risks.
No matter how many safety precautions you take, I don\'t take any responsibility.
If you hurt yourself without eye and ear protection, or use it in an unsafe way to hurt someone else, then I may see you in the next Darwin Award compilation
That said, if used properly, this gun is much less risky than a PVC potato gun.
In places where the entire potato impact of a traditional gun can cause serious damage, this small-
The gun fired a nodule-like shot like a wine bottle stopper --
I don\'t want to be hit on the face, but in the worst case, the effect of passing clothes on the body will be as bad as a paintball, and people will be shot for fun.
If you fire shells that are heavier than potato debris, or use fuel that is more volatile than deodorant or hairspray, you can only do it yourself. You will need:-
A plastic bottle. I used a square.
The first section is used to hold the bottlesquash]. -
A lighter with a piezoelectric lighter instead of a flint wheel, preferably a large BBQ lighter instead of a pocket lighter.
The small lighter will only make the electrical part a little more complicated. -
A long metal tube
I cut the building in half with the handle of the cheap mop bought by the supermarket, and the entire mop Rod and towel track part of the first mop Rod I built.
The pipe should be around 2 cm (3/4\")
The diameter is as straight as possible.
Unreliable tubes make a bad barrel. -
Solid wire, tape, electrical tape, all kinds of plastic waste
It\'s basically something for your average manufacturer.
If you don\'t, buy-
Always useful. -
Craft knife or similar
Soldering iron and glue guns will come in handy, but when they are used to hold things together, they can be replaced with more nails, and brave builders turn consumer goods into their components to reverse the work.
The lighter will almost certainly not use the screws, as removing is encouraged by the use of the screws.
Use a wise combination of intelligence and strength to open the shell and try not to stab any propane-
Once you open the lighter a little, your fingers are better, more sensitive, and less likely to pierce the dingbenzene tank than the knife.
If you do pierce the dingbenzene tank, put it somewhere outdoors before the lighter is emptied --
Ding benzene is heavier than air, so it will gather in the room and a can will pose a danger of explosion.
After opening the lighter, take the time to investigate the ingenuity of some of the trigger mechanisms that were designed by unknown genius and rarely recognized.
If you are saving the mechanism, please note how it is combined.
Remove the piezoelectric material and test the spark length on a nearby piece of metal.
Shock yourself with it if you have
It becomes less surprising only if it inevitably happens during the use of the gun.
The piezoelectric impact is a bit surprising, but the pain that actually causes the impact of the camera flash capacitor is negligible.
About the midpoint of your tube.
Mark, if you want.
One end of the tube may have a screw attachment that holds the mop head attached to it.
You don\'t need to remove it as long as the other end is clear so you don\'t have to cover another sharp metal edge.
Place the midpoint of the tube on your knees, grab the tube on both sides about 1 feet away, pray and pull hard.
If everything goes as planned, the damage on both sides of the tube is minimal.
Bend the tube several times, enjoy the feeling of bending the metal rod with your hands, then twist the bend until the tube breaks.
When this happens, the plastic coating can be disguised, so be wary of the sudden noise.
If the broken end of the tube is squeezed too flat, you need to open half of the end without a screw connection --
This is your bucket.
The best way to open it is to use a powerful screwdriver and some elbow grease.
Look down from your tube and pretend it\'s a kaleidoscope.
The opening end of the barrel should be the same as the rest of the diameter, but the annoying mop manufacturer insists on curling slightly inward.
Again use a reliable screwdriver or solid tapered object, such as a pair of pliers, to flash the end of the barrel to match the rest of the barrel.
Unless this important step is completed, your nodule projection will be a loose fit.
Try not to breathe in any metal dust from burning tubes, and there are more interesting things in life than itchy lungs.
Ignite your skanky old soldering iron and it\'s covered with rust from the day you realize the real need to color the iron head.
If you don\'t, light up your clean new soldering iron and hope you can clean up the plastic later.
Mark a circle at the bottom of the bottle the size of your bucket.
Use a wise combination of patience and soldering iron to open a circular hole smaller than a barrel.
Test the mounting bucket, zoom in the hole slightly and repeat it.
Patience at this stage will pay off because the bad gas around the barrel seal will reduce the final performance of your gun.
Once the hole fits comfortably around the barrel, let it cool (
No barrels in there! )until hard.
Try to make this hole \"straight\" through plastic and it will make your life easier later.
Heat the end of the needle or solid core wire with a lighter flame and push two holes about 1 cm apart near the neck of the bottle.
These are the holes in your wire.
They should be within the finger range of the neck of the bottle for later adjustment.
Peel off two solid wires long enough to extend from the hole to where you intend to install the piezoelectric elements
Allows a large number of extra lengths to provide you with space for multiple strain relief (
Electrical tape parts).
Peel off at least 1 cm from each end and bend these ends at a sharp right angle.
Insert the longer stripping end into the electrode hole.
Arrange the wire so that the tip is 5mm or closer apart and tape firmly (
Preferably hot glue)
End in the proper place.
Connect the other end to the piezoelectric element.
At this point, welding is unnecessary, and one of the main joys of working with piezoelectric sparkers is that sparks can jump the gap of millimeters in the wiring, so the contact joint is good enough.
This is also one of the main setbacks in working with piezoelectric sparkers --
Spark believes that several types of tape are conductors, including possible tape.
Use electrical tape, heat shrink tape or solid plastic to insulate the wires if possible.
Attach the piezoelectric material firmly to the outside of the bottle.
If you only use the element, you may need to consider how to insulate the two wires from each other to prevent it from getting fired.
Recognize the flaws in your plan
The plastic bottle will deform under side pressure, as required to operate the sparker button.
Improvise and attach some long rigid objects under sparker to distribute the load
In addition to the ubiquitous bamboo string, what else?
It\'s not better to realize this, but it has to do so without a PVC pipe.
At this point, when you realize that the project is over, the \"instructures mist\" may drop, just like the bottom of the ice cream bucket, until the end without properly recording your progress.
Insert the tube without any plastic drill bits (
\"Barrel\" in the future \")
Enter the bottle from the neck, not
Broken ends down.
Pass most of it through the hole until about 10 cm (4\")
In the bottle.
Don\'t worry if the barrel is not too straight.
If the barrel is not straight at all, as I found out, you can soften the plastic by floating a lighter flame around the barrel seal and straightening the barrel out.
If you happen to have a hot glue gun, once you are satisfied with its flatness, run a hot glue bead around the seal.
If not, use the tape to create ideas and find the best way to make it conform to the cylindrical 90 degree connection.
Cover the tip of another tube with some suitable covering to prevent it from being injured.
Don\'t underestimate the power of torn metal edges
I stabbed my finger with the marksman on the photo, did not bleed, and then quickly cut myself with a half mop handle.
Cloth tape,barrel tube (
\"Barrel support\" in the future \")to the bottle (
Later is the \"combustion chamber\" unless I am tired of typing)
Parallel to the barrel.
Resist temptation and try to make everything perfect at this point
Tuber is not an exact science.
Find your junk box
Take your trash out of the box.
Find some kind of rigid support from your plastic trash to connect between the bucket and the bucket support.
I use a stand on the bike pump and it doesn\'t fit my bike as it\'s already clipped on the bucket stand and just need to tape it on the bucket.
Congrats, you now have a \"little Bertha\" model --
Test Fire: Put on your eye and ear protection device.
Knead a piece of paper into a ball that will fit tightly in the bucket, but not too tight.
Load it up and go into the bucket as much as possible.
Open the cap and make a brief explosion with the fuel of your choice (a short blast-
The second quarter may be too many normal aerosol tanks).
Screw back the lid and pour the gun back several times to mix the fuel.
Hold the gun firmly and lean it against your body to prevent the recoil.
Click sparker and look forward to a loud noise-
Expect it to stop you from dropping the gun and wave it like a madman when it finally really turns into a gun.
If nothing happens, pour the gun over again, wait a few seconds and try again --
If these times don\'t work, your fuel mixture may be too thin or too rich.
If there is a slow \"whoof\" noise visible at the front of the flame and the gun gets hot, your mixture may be too rich --
Use less fuel next time.
This may also be due to insufficient fuel and air mixing.
If reducing the amount of fuel leads to no ignition at all, try the previous amount of fuel and rotate the gun for longer to provide a more complete mix.
If there is a violent explosion of an almost invisible blue flame, your fuel mixture is about right --
This paper may go a long way.
Open the bottle cap and the barrel is pointed up to ventilate the combustion chamber for a few seconds.
Blow your lips around your neck (
Like you blow on fire or hot food, not your cold hands)
For a few seconds, vent the gun further.
Repeat this from the gun.
Let the gun cool down for a few seconds if you\'re going to fire again-
Hot plastic is weak plastic.
If you are going to leave the gun, place it where the gun mouth points upwards, turn off the cap and let it go out.
In order for your little Bertha spud gun to win its name, grab the barrel, press the potato on the gun mouth and take out the potato bullet with a \"cookie cutter. (
You may want to remove the last 6 inch or so plastic coating from the muzzle to do this. )
Stoke to the other end of the barrel (
Stop before the curled part of the Cross
Change the shape of the section of the barrel).
Load and fire guns as mentioned above, make sure to shoot in a solid background or outdoors, away from people, animals and yourself, in a safe direction.
Do not fire shells that are too fierce or too heavy.
For example, don\'t want to take the ball out of the rat and launch it.
Where are you going from here?
Of course, we need to build a bigger one.
See if you can integrate the dingbenzene tank in the lighter into the design so you can press the button to refuel it.
Make a long bucket with the whole mop handle.
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