This project shows you how to replace the battery in the mouth
This is a great plastic toothbrush
B tell you, when the internal rechargeable Ni-
The CD battery is dead.
In addition to waste, the price of a toothbrush is about $90.
So when my father\'s toothbrush finally died, we decided to replace the battery.
This project needs to be welded and you may be able to destroy your (
When the toothbrush is taken apart and put back together.
The key here is to order batteries.
We found us at NICD Lady at Sanyo KR.
600AE with pads. As of 7-29-
2009, you can find it on this page: all NiCD cells are 1 as far as I know.
2 volts, this looks almost the right size.
Since toothbrushes can keep enough power at the new time and can last for a week without charging, we think they should work even if the power does not match the capacity of the original NICD battery exactly
Since the device is designed for NICDs, you should replace the battery with NICD.
On top of that, you need soldering iron, soldering tin, or X-
Acto knife, part
Nasal pliers, blood vessels (
We\'re using paper clips.
The stability of some electricians.
Stop: you need to know two things before proceeding.
First of all, the internal organs are springloaded.
Second, the base of the toothbrush is still connected to the main body of the toothbrush with four fine copper wires.
These are fragile.
So, when you get this done, you need to grab the toothbrush tightly.
The \"wrench\" used to unlock the toothbrush base is on the back of the charger.
Grab the toothbrush, push it onto this \"wrench\" and screw it a little while pushing it firmly into the charger.
It takes very little effort, it takes about the eighth time
Open the bottom of the toothbrush.
Gently remove the toothbrush when you feel it pop up.
If the base of the toothbrush is glued to the charger, take a screwdriver or other small instrument there and pry it open gently.
Don\'t try to pull it down through four fine copper wires.
The whole inside of the toothbrush will come out at this point.
The bottom edge of the internal \"engineering\" engages with the external plastic housing.
So you might want to tie it up with a needle.
When you push the \"work\" out from the other end, the pointed pliers or small screwdriver pry the edge of the internal \"work\" out of the outer shell. To be clear --
The whole thing is coming out, so when you get off the bottom of the \"work\" from the outer shell, push the steel bar to where the brush is connected.
This does not require much power.
Once it\'s free, it\'s just an O-
Seal the ring that keeps the works at the top.
The battery is welded.
There are only two rules here: 1)
Leave the welding label on the board as much as possible, 2)
Don\'t spoil anything.
When you go to install a new battery, you will understand why you want to leave the tin sheet on the board.
Besides, you can only rely on yourself.
I\'m using long-
Pliers and X
Acto knives pop up labels from the battery as much as possible. Good luck. . .
Trust me, take the time to leave as many labels as possible on the blackboard.
You will appreciate yourself when you go to weld the new battery.
So I did it once in my life.
I believe I can do better by practicing, but there are rules here.
First of all, the stupidest thing is to weld the battery together.
There are bumps on the front end, just like a normal AA.
I put the battery aside. by-
Side, clip the leads together and Weld.
Then fold the mess together as much as possible and put a little tape on it to hold it together.
Then, when you wrap it together, the positive leads extend up into the shell, and the negative leads Weld to the label at the bottom of the shell close to the four fragile wires.
This is a big booing.
Boo got it wrong, so check it a few times.
As for how to weld the battery label to the stub, I can only say that I made one in the middle of the Shell first, folded the label, and then made one at the bottom.
The label needs to be almost parallel in order to get a good welding connection-
But you can bend the excess part.
It is worth mentioning that the standard advice is not to let the battery overheat when you do so.
Don\'t ask me how do you know the battery is overheating.
Anyway, the goal is to get a solid solder joint between the battery label and the label stub attached to the board.
No style point-
You can manage it in any way.
Insert the work into the case. Don\'t force it.
The picture shows the correct direction. (
Forget it, don\'t you? I sure did. )
If in doubt, look down at the top of the box, and if your whole job is in the right direction, the rod supporting the toothbrush will be centered in the hole.
I tried it a few times.
Now, you can break one of the four small wires here. (
I did it, just weld it back in place).
The most difficult part of the whole transaction is to re-
Assemble the bottom.
Pour the toothbrush over the box and assemble the parts (
Turn on the \"turn\" section at the bottom of the toothbrush (one-eight-turn-askew)position.
At this point, what you have looks like an explosion map at the bottom of your toothbrush.
Make sure the four thin lines look like they are resting comfortably.
Now hold the charger wrench down and join up-
Drop the toothbrush with a wrench, gently compress the mess and turn it back --
Tightening in the eighth circle.
If all goes well, hey, that\'s it.
If not, you need to try it three or four times (as we did). We (my dad)
Broke a wire at the time and had to weld it back-
It may be worth looking at these before you start this step, just in case.
But everything went well.
Plug the charger in and put the brush on the charger to see if it will charge. Blinking light? All is well.
You can simply open it in a few minutes to verify that it works.
Let it charge.
Please treat NICD batteries as toxic waste.
That\'s what you should do, and that\'s why the case started in the first place ---
You should pull the battery before throwing the device.
One sentence: $5 worth of batteries, $3 shipping and a $90 toothbrush saved for an hour of labor.
I don\'t know how long this will last, but it seems worth a bet.
Last comment: probably should replace O-
When I was above, there was a ring seal on the top.
And if you\'re going to shoot your toothbrush on the Internet. . . . . . Clean it first.
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